BOLIVIAN RESTAURANT,

Though they do not constitute one of the larger Latino populations in Rhode Island, Bolivian-Americans in Providence are making a big splash at the modestly named Bolivian Restaurant. Not only are Eduardo and Maria Curi, and their son, Cesin, turning out authentic dishes from the heart of the Andes, the warmth of their service makes you feel you've been invited into their home back in Cocachamba. Decor is simple, with South American textiles, wooden artifacts, and a few images of Bolivian mountains hanging on the walls. Four booths along the street-side windows and another dozen tables quickly filled with Spanish-speaking families on a recent Sunday evening, and our waiter told us that customers have come from as far away as Boston and New York. Any part of the menu might be drawing them in: the unusual beverages; the homemade meat pies and soups; the fancy cakes and simple puddings, also homemade; and the gamut of beef and pork dishes, from steaks and tongue to tripe and pig's feet.

Full review.